When the Klamath River was undammed after 100 years, tens of thousands of adult salmon rallied upstream, speed-wriggling across shallows like thick silver snakes.
There were grate expectations. Cremes of the crop. Fondues and don’ts, wheys to go, bleu feelings and harvarti parties At last month’s 19th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival.
The faux bookcase door that adds to the speakeasy feel of the pocket-sized gem that is Ulterior bar, tucked upstairs at 110 Pearl Alley, won’t be enough to keep this revelation quiet.
What isn’t changing: the vintage vibe; the full-bodied range of herb-butter hanger steaks, baby back ribs and ground-chuck cheeseburgers, hand prepped and smoked in house.
The menu has three outstanding elements tucked into its vast inventory of Surf’s Up omelets, salmon Castroville, jambalaya Santa Cruz, and teriyaki top sirloins.