Santa Cruz’s new Sesame Korean is a great introduction to an ancient culinary tradition
I am always surprised to discover how little my fellow diners know about Korea’s pickled past, especially given our elevated consciousness around healthful eating and the current fermentation frenzy. Having lived in South Korea for a year, I can tell you that Sesame Korean is a great place to begin understanding how healthy this culture’s cuisine really is.
It begins with Sesame Korean’s ban chun, which are complimentary side dishes at the start of the meal that are brimming with nutrition: perfectly seasoned soybean sprouts, pickled daikon, sweetened potatoes, boiled seasoned spinach, sweet black beans, and the inimitable cabbage kimchi. Great care is taken with the ban chun at Sesame Korean, and it is readily replaced with more.
The ban chun will have prepped your taste buds for a meal first served about 2,000 years ago during the Silla dynasty—that’s a long time to find perfection, agreed? The main ingredients in most of Sesame’s dishes are Korean classics: salting, preserving, fermenting, and the flavors of red pepper, garlic, ginger and scallions. A new spin on a classic is the spicy chicken wings, which is Sesame’s answer to Buffalo wings, and should set your mouth on fire. If spice is not your thing, take in a savory vegetable pancake, which is thick and mild and perfect for dipping in seasoned soy sauce. Or you can try the sumptuous grilled pork belly, the perfect no-carb small bite.
Winter is on its way, and the nights are colder, so if you are seeking warmth and happiness, this place has your number: Order either the bubbling soondubu or the bi bim bop, a sizzling rice-based bowl in a very hot stone pot. The soondubu offers up soft silky tofu in fiery broth that will cleanse you of whatever is making you tired, impure or sad. It is religion in a bowl.
If you want something a bit heavier, dive into the crispy rice in the stone pot with its accompanying spinach, carrots, mushrooms, kimchi and fried egg. It will fill you without being overfilling. There is also the grill, with its offerings of chicken and beef bulgogi, served with gochujang, a thick red spicy paste that is placed on rice and wrapped up in lettuce with your grilled meat. The jopchae is Korea’s answer to spaghetti, and this dish rivals the best of Italy; clear glass noodles made from sweet potatoes, served with a sweet and savory tamari dressing and julienne vegetables. Side note: kids love this dish.
You cannot go wrong here. When you leave Sesame Korean you will marvel at how well you feel—not overly full, and re-energized. Yes, it has to end. But you can keep going back.
Sesame Korean, 435 Front St., Santa Cruz, 429-5555.
Back Porch Supper Club
At last Wednesday’s Farmers Market downtown, I was lulled over to the Back Porch food truck where I purchased two overstuffed, mouthwatering tacos, one of which I ate on the spot, standing, uncivilized, juice dripping down my chin. From the looks of those around me, we were all doing the same—caught in the act of sheer public pleasure. The guys at the truck handed me their “Supper Club” invite and I was like, “did that public display just gain me entry into Back Porch’s secret club? I’m there!” Turns out we are all invited, but seats go fast. On the menu: stuffed Cornish hens, Cinderella pumpkin mousse, pumpkin bread pudding with brandy and chicken demi-glace, roasted squash with candied lemons and pickled vegetables, risotto, and winter greens. $50. 5:30 p.m., Sunday, Oct. 18 at the Great Pumpkin Patch in Soquel Village. 206-604-9482 or ba*********@ya***.com.
BOWL OF GOODNESS Susanna Kim, owner of Santa Cruz’s new Sesame Korean Grill, with beef ban chan. PHOTO: CHIP SCHEUER
