Rustic California cuisine at Assembly, plus wine of the week and a Holiday Open House
Seeking aid, comfort and a hearty lunch on a gray day last week, we found all of the above—and more—at Assembly. The house that Kendra and Zach built is more appealing than ever, graced with some of the best-trained servers in the area and a seductive menu. Absolutely “yes” we answered our server Michael when he tempted us with “bread fresh from the oven.” My lunch date, on his initial visit to Assembly, was won over immediately by the huge salt crystals topping the side of butter served with the warm, wood-fired bread. Here were carbs so earthy and sustaining that they mocked the very idea of waistline issues.
I love those pretty little cast-iron pots Assembly provides for orders of green tea. And the equally pretty glazed cups. I needed something substantial, and the flat iron steak and avocado salad looked just right ($14.50). My companion spied Assembly’s popular West Coast burger and looked no further ($13.50.) We busied ourselves with tea, bread, and a tiny plate of pistachios and apples. Jack admired the sleek industrial interior of the restaurant, and I was happy that we had gone early enough in the lunch hour that the restaurant was quiet enough for conversation. Looking ridiculously gorgeous, both main dishes delivered what we needed. Jack’s burger—done exactly at the rare/medium-rare point—was enthroned on a homemade brioche bun lavish with scarlet beefsteak tomato ($3 extra), an aioli-esque “secret sauce,” melted cheddar and a side of thin dill pickle. It was indecently thick, juicy and delicious. The side of fries was abundant and crisp next to a generous bowl of ketchup. Slightly larger than an actual human mouth, the burger allowed itself to be deconstructed (Jack removed the top bun) before inundation. I love that burgers are back! And they’re available, by the way, at Assembly all day long. But I also loved my rare flat iron steak slices, fanned across half the plate, avocado slices nearby next to a super-crisp endive salad strewn with Early Girl tomatoes and hyper-crisp micro-chips of sunchoke. Charred sweet peppers formed an intense relish drizzled over the steak, with more of those killer pickled onions and a hint of cilantro bringing it all into a whole new dimension. Steak salad with green tea. Here was a combo I could live with, again and again. And the beauty of the flat iron cut is that its marbling means that it has much more flavor than the more buttery (and expensive!) filet mignon. Rustic California foods, locally sourced and beyond fresh, never tasted better than this. Assembly, another great idea from those Penny Ice Creamery folks. Open daily at 1108 Pacific Ave., except Tuesday. assembleforfood.com
Wine of the Week
Beauregard Vineyards Lost Weekend ($24), is a full-throated and instantly likeable red blend from the wild mind of winemaker Ryan Beauregard. I sampled it last week at Gabriella Cafe while putting up my current exhibition of portrait paintings. (Check ’em out.) The 2012 Lost Weekend—named for the colorful saloon once located on the spot of today’s tasting room—is a savory berry-laden blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, a very versatile partner for pasta, pizza, burgers, and chocolate ice cream.
Tasting Tips
Swing by lovely Carmel Village for the Windy Oaks Winery Holiday Open House, Saturday, Dec. 19, from noon to 7 p.m. Sample the exceptional Pinot Noirs made by winemaker Jim Schultz, enjoy apps from Affina, cheese from the stupendous Cheese Shop and some holiday tunes, too. The Tasting Room is at the west side of Dolores, between 5th and 6th. Charming to the max.
HIGH STEAKS Flat iron steak and avocado salad is a sizzling lunch item at Assembly. PHOTO: CHIP SCHEUER
