My wife, Julie, says West Cliff Drive is her favorite place to walk because it is so easy: “You just park your car and start walking and listen to the waves crash against the rocks.” That is a magic feature of the walk, to see and feel and hear that point where the sea meets the land, where the rocks throw the waves into the air, each eruption of spray forming a unique water pattern, every plume as unique as a snowflake.
Sacred Steps
From the wharf, past the Lighthouse, past the world-famous Steamer Lane surfing spot and up to Natural Bridges is about 2 and ½ miles. Writing a 1,000-word column about this West Cliff walk to explain what this bit of coastline means to Santa Cruz is like taking a stroll from Saint Peter’s Square to the Sistine Chapel to write 1,000 words about its importance to the Holy See. For the spirit of Santa Cruz, this land is no less sacred.
From the wharf to Natural Bridges is roughly 5,000 steps for most, and every step lands on thousands of years of blood, sweat and tears to save this sacred place. When we take those steps, something deep in our bodies can feel the spirit that moved the stewards of this precious coastland, from the Awaswas people who lived here for 12,000 years to the current Coastal Commission, in its never-ending struggle to keep investors from buying and destroying this holy place. To quote fabled, former Coastal Commission Director Peter Douglas, “The coast is never saved.”
Santa Cruz Wharf to Lighthouse Beach
Tourists don’t get it. They can’t. I think it’s fine that vacationers are drawn to this walk for no other reason that it is among the most beautiful places on earth. The Santa Cruz Wharf is 2,745 feet long, the longest pier on the West Coast, and as I walk out to the end of the wharf, I’m charmed to hear families speak in exotic languages from around the world.
At the end of the wharf, I lean against the railing and smile at the young couple next to me with big cameras hanging from their necks. The young man points at the city of Monterey across the bay, barely visible in the mist, and asks me, “Is that Hawaii?”
You may have to live here to get it, but walking along West Cliff Drive from the Santa Cruz wharf to Natural Bridges State Park is a good place to start. Out and back on the wharf is over a mile, but it is a way to let the wind fill your hair and your sails.
The wharf does have some of the nicest restaurants in Santa Cruz and tourist trap shops abound with virtually everything manufactured in China stamped with the name Santa Cruz. Walking the wharf is probably the clearest view you’ll get of the entire Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. Walk back inland toward the roundabout at Front Street and you can drop down off the wharf and get a short beach walk in on the north end of Cowell Beach. You can get to the West Cliff Drive sidewalk on paths around the Dream Inn.
The sidewalk will take you past marine cliff fauna where you can watch the ever-present surfers ride the waves of the world-famous Steamer Lane. This is where Jack O’Neill developed the modern surfing wetsuit (the water is cold). The path reaches its furthermost point out into Monterey Bay just before it takes a sharp right turn to the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum. Check out the photographs and exhibits that chronicle over 100 years of surfing history. It’s open from noon to 5pm, closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Just past the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum to the left of the path is Lighthouse Field State Beach. Inland is Lighthouse Field, the site of the Herculean effort to rescue this 37-acre parcel from developers. There are paths throughout the field where you are free to walk; dogs are allowed on-leash only.
Bring Your Binoculars
The West Cliff Drive path runs along the cliffs with huge boulders breaking the crashing waves apart, and you can always see marine or bird life on the rocks. Monterey Bay is known as the “Serengeti of the Sea”—a diverse ecosystem that plays host to 34 species of marine mammals, more than 180 species of seabirds and shorebirds, over 525 species of fishes, and innumerable invertebrates. Use your binoculars to spot whales, sharks, sea otters, sealions, seals and countless species of birds.
If you want more beach, you can drop down into Mitchell Cove Beach, more protected than Santa Cruz Beach. The path continues along the rugged, rocky West Cliff to your left and the mansion beach houses inland and culminates in a parking lot. You can walk down ramps into yet another stunning stretch of sand, Natural Bridges State Beach. There is an electric bike rental station at the corner of Swanton Boulevard and West Cliff Drive.
A Place to Dream
Santa Cruz is a place people dream of, and the more you learn about it the more you understand that it was created from people’s dreams. There may be some dreams in life you’ll have to delete—no one will ever perfectly fold a fitted sheet—but if you walk West Cliff Drive your mind will open simply from the walking.
Breathe in the ocean air and you can forget who you are. Walk far enough and your brain will stop, and that is when hope slips in. In Santa Cruz you can decide to leap without a net, to give your dreams a try, and if that net does not appear, then you will learn how to fly.
And it is well worth stopping in at the Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary Exploration Center located at 35 Pacific Ave, at the roundabout.
It’s free, it’s informative, it’s fabulous. From operating the underwater ROV to the films on our local history to First Friday’s with local artists, something for everyone young or old.
Wonderful views of the Monterey Bay from the balcony, entertaining and informative docents, and a lovely gift store full of maritime treasures.
Well worth exploring!