Homemade Bolognese sauce from Gayle’s Bakery, plus a to-die-for Burrata dish and wine of the week
A slow-cooked, labor-intensive, rich, meaty Bolognese sauce is one of the crowning appointments of any fine dish of pasta. And while I actually enjoy making it from scratch—except for all that dicing of carrots, onions and celery, and all that stirring, adding more wine, stirring for hours—there are times when a pre-made Bolognese can make the difference between an indifferent meal and a memorable one. Recovering from a dental encounter, I craved a plate of non-crunchy food with true home-cooked flavor. But one that I didn’t actually have to home-cook with my own hands. Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria came to the rescue with a Bolognese sauce ($11.50/lb) that could have been cooked in the kitchen of an Italian nonna.
We have often turned to the aromatic rosticceria section of this mighty Capitola institution for aid and comfort in the form of sizzling sausages and peppers, or the prêt-a-manger meatloaf and mashed potatoes dinner. But here was a nice big container of Bolognese sauce gazing up at me from the long, glittering array of pre-made items. Dinner suddenly became possible without a lot of hassle. Delicious and loaded with tiny bits of meat and veggies, the sauce clung nicely to our wide bowls of fusilli, slathered with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Add a goblet of medicinal red wine, (a Syrah did nicely), and it was sensational. In my experience, Bolognese is not always on Gayle’s shelves. But when it is, I suggest you whisk some home with you. Use immediately or freeze for a later don’t-want-to-cook occasion.
Soif’s Up
Still getting the hang of the new feng shui at Soif, Angie and I parked ourselves at the domain of the wine bar and shared a pretty appetizer plate of luscious, creamy Burrata that arrived with slabs of black Mission figs, crimson quarters of pluot, transparent slices of salty speck and fluffs of frisée bathed in a tart, sprightly vinaigrette ($13). To honor this beautiful dish we chose two of the Italian Verdicchios from the evening’s white flight menu. Angie liked the mineral-driven 2014 Colle Stefano Verdicchio, but I preferred my 2013 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. (Such fun to say that out loud. Seriously. Does Italian have any rivals at all in terms of aural playfulness?) A glass of wine and shared apps at Soif may be the exact way to pivot from the workday into the evening. For dinner, look no further than Soif’s Niman Ranch ribeye steak with those amazing hand-cut fries.
Wine of the Week
Distinctive, effortless, as multi-dimensional as a spiral of DNA— our latest Pinot Noir favorite is from La Honda Winery, a 2013 Santa Cruz Mountains creation called “Sequence” made by Colin McNany. With 13.4 percent alcohol it is substantial enough to deliver flavor, aromatics and tannins, yet still light enough to feel refreshing. First pour suggests tamarind and strawberry with an earthy foundation. The wine then opens into a plummy center laced with notes of mint and tobacco and a long finish of licorice. Yeow! That’s a lot of serious Pinot Noir action for $25. It also loves salmon, as do we. Look for this lovely La Honda Pinot Noir at your favorite wine shop.
Updates
Now that Labor Day is behind us, Jim and Judy Schultze want to remind you that the Windy Oaks Corralitos tasting room is open from noon to 5 p.m. on Saturdays, but not Sunday. Also, look for the outrageous Manresa pastries and crusty breads whipped up by head baker Avery Ruzicka from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. every Wednesday in the downtown Pop-Up space, next to Assembly at 1108 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz. Yes, the polenta cake is that good. manresabread.com.
LOW AND SLOW Traditional Bolognese sauce simmers in the kitchen at Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria. PHOTO: CHIP SCHEUER
