.Pasta Passport

Italy on the Eastside

Authentically Italian, from the vibes and welcoming service to the food and décor, Lago Di Como seeks to transport guests straight to Italy upon walking through its doors. Co-owner Lindsay Rodriguez and her husband, Matteo, partnered with executive chef and founder Giovanni a year ago, and she says their complementary skill sets make a perfect match.

Rodriguez’s industry career is extensive and international; she was a server during college in San Francisco before studying and serving/bartending abroad in France and Spain. She then returned to Santa Cruz and managed several local spots before taking the ownership dive with Lago Di Como.

The menu blends northern and southern Italian cuisines with a nod to Sardinia, best begun with appetizers like the fritto misto, with local calamari and large head-on white shrimp, and the smoked beef carpaccio, with caperberries, shaved parmesan and balsamic reduction.

A flagship entrée is the branzino, a whole Mediterranean sea bass marinated in fresh herbs and baked in a wood-fired oven. A ruffled-edge macaroni served with sautéed guanciale and fresh local artichokes is another favorite, as is the bone-in, dry-aged porterhouse steak.

The menu’s authenticity ends with the seada, a classic not-too-sweet Sardinian dessert of pastry dough filled with soft, fresh pecorino then flash-fried and drizzled with honey.

How would you compare service here and abroad?

LINDSAY RODRIGUEZ: I think the difference is that in Europe, service is more customer-driven. It’s not as much about fostering a personal relationship; it’s more about creating an experience and facilitating an amazing time. It’s really not about the server, and can be very humbling in that sense. Being an American abroad in the service industry, I found people really responded to my kindness, warmth and American-driven sense of personal customer service.

Tell me about your concept.

What we’re going for here is bringing a genuine Italian experience to Santa Cruz that most people wouldn’t find outside of Italy. Our menu changes frequently, but we always feature scratch-made in-house pasta as well as traditional, popular dishes in Italy that aren’t often found in the U.S. We have nightly diverse and seasonal specials, as well as an extensive and eclectic Italian-focused wine list that is unrivaled locally.

Dark on Tuesdays, hours are 5-9:30pm. 21490 East Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 831-454-8257; lagodicomoristorante.com

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