Outdoor dining at Laili, plus notes from the Persian New Year
Many an atrium in Rome would envy the courtyard of Laili. Atmospheric and cosmopolitan, the long outdoor seating area is well appointed with heat lamps and enclosed by vine-covered walls. In short, this al fresco dining spot is romantic, spacious, and allows for comfortable conversation. Don’t even think about dining indoors during prime time. You want to be in that chic courtyard. Naturally, this is where we head every time we dine at Laili, where recently we enjoyed two dinners.
Four of us shared a bottle of Argentine Malbec, robust enough to partner with the compelling seasonings of Laili specialties. After arduous research we have discovered that the Mendoza Malbec 2012 ($9 glass/$36 bottle) offers enough big fruit and rounded tannins to flatter every single dish on the menu. It’s our go-to wine at Laili. We always start with the Mediterranean Plate ($8). Its sensuous hummus, minty tabbouleh, and a babaghanoush that is superior to any other version I’ve tasted, were inhaled by the four of us, aided by earthy warm lavosh. The kabob platters have long been our favorites. For me, the outstanding filet mignon ($25), perfectly grilled (rare!) and served with those addictive chutneys and jalapeño-inflected sauce and qurut yogurt. My sweetie looks forward to the lamb tenderloin skewer ($25) served with the same sauces, kabuli rice and an exotic vegetable melange of okra and parsnip. The unusual vegetables work beautifully with the supple, delicious grilled meat. A companion also ordered the beet salad; beets on a bed of wild arugula, with goat cheese and honey-dijon vinaigrette. She asked for the addition of grilled prawns with her salad ($18). The result was a fragrant and visually dazzling plate of crimson ingredients, all appealingly perfumed by the blood-red beet juices. On another occasion, I switched my usual Laili preference for the filet mignon—which just might be the finest steak available in Santa Cruz—and tried the special scallops kabob. Even though it didn’t come with those signature condiments—the fiery jalapeño-mint sauce, the orange chutney, and qurut yogurt—it arrived with saffron basmati rice and exotic veggies—it was a completely memorable execution of my favorite shellfish. The scallops ($28) were huge, moist and fresh. I managed to finish two of them, and took the others home for a lavish lunch the next day. One of these days, we’ll manage to sample a Laili dessert. Pistachio cardamom ice cream! The very concept is fantastical. Other diners in the courtyard were obviously enjoying their Laili favorites—the huge fragrant pasta dishes looked incredibly tempting. Maybe next time. The Laili courtyard reinvents our Mediterranean climate into a culinary experience. lailirestaurant.com.
Persian New Year at Joze
Speaking of cardamom and chutney, last week’s Now Rooz Persian New Year’s banquet at India Joze delivered all of the expert artistry one of our finest chefs can finesse. From the opening celestial mango and red pepper chutney to tiny thimbles of cool green pea soup to finales of various baklavas, cookies and tea, the feast was memorable. In addition to the flash-fried kale and parsnip chips, the huge bowls of pistachios and almonds, appetizers included warm naan, sliced beef with chutney and goose liver paté. Each table was adorned with huge (very huge) platters of fresh herbs, and cilantros and mints to be eaten with each course. I loved the spiced beef and aromatic fish in saffron rice, but my favorite course (after the rack of lamb) was duck in pomegranate sauce. Kudos to Jozseph Schultz, who continues to astonish (and deserves a better venue), and to the mesmerizing House of Ilanna dancers, who kept us enthralled with finger cymbals and graceful gyrations while the chef whipped up yet more Persian specialties.
PHOTO: Dining al fresco at Laili’s spacious courtyard offers privacy, comfortable conversation and vine-covered walls you could hang your heart on. CHIP SCHEUER
