Sean Venus’ gin straight up, remembering Rosa’s and a tasting of Hungarian wines
Sean Venus has infused new botanical metaphors into the entire concept of gin. His Blend No. 1 Venus Spirits gin—for which I happily forked over $31 at Whole Foods—is the sort of libation that Morgan le Fay might have enjoyed over a midnight incantation. The beautiful label on the beautiful bottle tends to inspire confidence, but it’s that initial perfume of juniper that practically somersaults from the pulled cork that had us mooning with anticipation. Sure enough, this locally made 46 percent alcohol liquid tissue of dreams is infused with a delicate yet vibrant roster of fragrances and flavors. Juniper leaps out first, immediately followed by licorice, tangerine and what seems like geranium. As the gin opens to room temperature the cardamom and coriander come into focus, again each sip seems to float on an island of citrus. Lavender and a slight waft of ginger also dance in and out. Let’s just say that my preference would be to offer this nuanced, action-packed gin straight up. In fact, we found that much of its magic seemed lost with the addition of tonic. Rustic old-school gins, such as Gordon’s or Bombay, pushed through the sweetness of tonic water with more bluntness. Venus has just released Blend No. 2, a sexy amber-hued gin aged in new American oak and inflected by fennel, sage, bay, citrus and peppercorn. It’s an entirely new creation that lingers between gin and single malt whisky. $38.
Rosa’s Recall
Wow! My mention of Rosa’s opened up a world of fond Yacht Harbor food memories. Reader Marty Siegel recalls that “Lee von Rha and his wife Carol were the owners. My wife and I ate there often … I have a strong appreciation for spicy and garlicky and Rosa’s scratched that itch wonderfully. When we last said ‘Goodbye’ to them they were off to the Caribbean to be good pirates and maybe open another restaurant. There has never been a better restaurant at the Yacht Harbor than Rosa’s.” Jeff Caplan agrees: “Boy I miss Rosa’s too, way back from the ’80s when their first restaurant opened up in a former drive-in on Freedom Boulevard in Watsonville. We were all bilingual teachers then who would reward ourselves after a hard week by going to Rosa’s Rosticeria … Salsas Anonymous was a 12-step group founded just outside in their parking lot. Yes even their menu was tasty. Where ever they are, they deserve much gratitude and support for feeding a generation of movers and shakers.” And Roger Emanuels recalls Rosa’s as “a wonderful restaurant that has never been duplicated in Santa Cruz. I can picture the owner/chef in a bandana, but forget his name. He was fed up with politics and with the USA in general. He said he was going to live in Nicaragua. I remember his whimsical menu and a salsa bar to die for—not to mention the great view of the harbor.” Thanks to all of you who responded to my query about the greatly loved Rosa’s, a genuine original.
Hungary Yet?
The Tokaj region of Hungary is home to exceptional and exotic wines, centering on the Furmint grape which many of us have come to love, thanks to the Soif wine list. Now, for the first time in Santa Cruz history, an all-Hungarian wine tasting/workshop is coming to Soif on Saturday, March 28 led by importer Frank Dietrich. Ah, those volcanic regions of Hungary—Samló, Tokaj, Hegy, Szerkszárd—hard to say, provocative to love. The tasting offers three whites, three reds and one sweet wine, plus tasteful snacks, all for $20. Make reservations (required!) by calling 423-2020 or emailing al****@so******.com.
PHOTO: Sean Venus with his Venus Spirits gin. CHIP SCHEUER
